Jean-Claude Ellena is arguably the world’s most famous and revered living perfumer; known for an aesthetic philosophy of minimalism that pervades the last two decades of his work, Ellena carved an olfactory signature for Hermès that relied on transparent and legible structures chiselled with a light and delicate touch. After being anointed as the successor to Ellena’s tenure, perfumer Christine Nagel is reported to have worked alongside him for two years before taking the helm in 2016. Her first wave of in-house releases included Eau des Merveilles Bleue, Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate, and Galop d'Hermès. Since then, Nagel has worked on another 11 projects including the new flanker of 2017’s Twilly d'Hermès named Twilly d'Hermès Eau Poivrée, launched in August of this year.
The new scent without doubt presents facets of intrigue and interest, if not dulled by being rooted a little too much in nostalgia to achieve its aim of captivating a new, young generation of Hermès customers.
The brand announces Twilly d'Hermès Eau Poivrée as “spicy, floral, woody”, declaring that it possesses “the peppery spirit of a daring fragrance, coloured with vibrant pink peppercorn, tender rose and elegant patchouli … Their essences intertwine, weaving an invisible web of connection between the Hermès girls”. Christine Nagel herself is quoted as saying that “Hermès girls swim happily against the tide, set their own tempo, invent a whole new rhythm. For them I have imagined a new facet in tribute to their youthful spirit.”
Top note: pink pepper
A dry, scratchy spice is the first texture that hits you, zinging through your nostrils like a zesty chutney or chili marmalade. Seconds later, you regain your bearings on a dehydrated dusty rose, hidden by a pulpy silkscreen that tricks you into imagining grapefruit or rhubarb. The effect imposes a popping-candy-esque bounce to the citronellol facet of the rose, often present in the marriage of rose and patchouli, as is just identifiable in Portrait Of A Lady if you search for it. Pink pepper functions as the rough-around-the-edges cousin of ambroxan, smudging the composition with an incandescent supernova haze that lights up the dying rose in technicolour, crushing it by hand right in front of you until it’s blood red, a bit like Une Rose Vermeille.
At this point, the terracotta qualities of patchouli start to stagnate the high energy of the top, aging the kinetic vibrancy of the pepper into an altogether grainier memory of classic chypres and pressed vintage flowers. The trail is even less upbeat, turning grey by the hour and clogging up the spritely youthful details with the coarseness of nostalgia.
The notes of Twilly d'Hermès Eau Poivrée don’t do it justice. The original Twilly was creamy, indolic, and heady with a voluptuous tuberose that unraveled into powdery smooth sandalwood; the materials were the stars and their combination resulted in some unique contrasting textures, most notably a divide between granulated gingered grittiness and velvety gloss, in a very Jean-Claude Ellena fashion.
The new Poivrée version communicates the inverse: predominantly textures, with the importance of recognizing the materials taking a back seat. In Twilly number 1, each olfactory layer is stacked on top of the other in a more or less uniform fashion to form an opera cake of juxtapositions that is simple but effective. In contrast, Eau Poivrée impressively gathers materials that all sing the same tune and hyperbolizes them to be much more than the sum of their parts – the facets owned by each single material heightening the identical facets of the other materials. The spiciness of pink pepper makes the inherent spiciness of rose and patchouli even spicier; the softness of rose enables the softness of pink pepper and patchouli to be more delicately felt; and the earthy sweetness of patchouli amplifies that same quality of the pink pepper and the rose.
This dynamic of exponentially lifting the style by doubling down on the main themes creates an interesting perfumery neologism that smells great, just not particularly young.
1.1 Why are the products so much cheaper?
We sell products directly to the public. There is no physical shop and there are no middlemen, so our overheads are kept very low, and we pass our savings onto you!
1.2 Are the products that you sell real or authentic?
All the products that we sell are completely genuine - we have no dealing with counterfeit of fake products. We sell the same name brand designer fragrances you will find in all the big retail department stores except not at the retail prices.
1.3 What is the difference between Perfume, Eau de Parfum, Eau de Toilette, and Eau de Cologne?
The differences are simply a matter of the amount or concentration of oils in the fragrance. These oils are called "juice." The highest concentration of "juice" is in perfume (or parfum). Next would be Eau de Parfum, then Eau de Toilette, and finally Eau de Cologne.
Actually, Eau de Toilette and Eau de Cologne are generally interchangeable, particularly in Men's fragrances. The higher the concentration of "juice" the longer your fragrance will last, and the less you need to apply.
1.4 Why do some fragrances seem to last much longer than others?
People with dry skin usually find their fragrance holding time shorter than those with oily skin because oily skin has more natural moisture to hold in the fragrance.
PH levels (amount of acidity in our skin) also varies slightly from person to person. Our individual levels of PH will determine how each ingredient in a fragrance will react.
1.5 How can I make my scent last longer?
Fragrance lasts longer on some people than on others because of differences in our skin (oily or dry) and in our PH levels. To achieve a longer effect, try layering your fragrance. Using the fragrance bath gel, (if the company offers one), then the moisturizer or powder, and then the Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum or Eau de Cologne, will usually have a longer lasting effect.
Also, apply your fragrance low on the body, as well as behind your ears and on your neck, so that the scent rises and you won't lose it as quickly. A light spray on the hair can last all day.
1.5 Why does fragrance contain alcohol?
Alcohol makes the fragrance emanate from your skin. Without alcohol, you would be the only person who knew you were wearing any fragrance at all.
1.6 How can I keep my fragrance from going bad?
Keep all fragrance in a cool, dry area, and away from windows as sunlight can unbalance the various ingredients. An opened bottle should be kept in its box to insure a longer shelf life.
2.1 What payment method do you accept?
Perfume Philippines offers a number of payment methods. Perfume Philippines provides you with all the possible ways that you can purchase from us using the payment method you are most comfortable with.
Secured Payment Methods are:
Over the counter payments & Internet Banking (Dragonpay)
Cash On Delivery (COD) Nationwide
You can pay in cash to our delivery man when you receive the goods at your doorstep. Please make sure that you have ready cash upon delivery. You can ask someone to RECEIVE and PAY the goods on your behalf if for instance you are not around/available upon delivery of the goods. We will notify you via email once your order has been shipped and ready for delivery. Expect package within 1 to 3 working days.
2.3 What are the procedures to pay via Over the Counter Payments?
If you select Dragonpay as payment option, please select your preferred option (BDO, BPI, Chinabank, EastWest, Metrobank, PNB, RCBC, Unionbank, UCPB or LBC). You will then be sent payment instructions to your email address, please print these and bring them to a branch of the option you chose and make your deposit. Afterwards, if you have selected one of the banks, access the instructions email again, click on the confirmation link and fill in the necessary details, which will automatically validate your payment and unlock your order(s) in your account on www.perfumes.com.ph. In case you selected LBC, after deposit please wait for 1 day for the system to process it. Then the system will automatically validate your payment and unlock your order(s) in your account on Perfume Philippines.
3.Shipping and Delivery
3.1 How long does it take to deliver my order(s)?
As soon as your order is completed, you will be receive a confirmation email that we have received your payment and that your package is out for delivery. Perfume Philippines delivers within approximately 2 to 3 working days.
To track your order, please use the tracking ID sent to you in the confirmation email. As a precaution, please keep the order confirmation email of the delivered product.
In the rare circumstance that your item has a defect or is missing from your order please contact us via contact us page or thru our live chat.
3.2 Can my parcel be delivered to an office address?
Yes, your parcel can be delivered to an office address. Please enter the address along with your full name upon checkout. Please advise the person receiving to present their valid ID along with your letter of authorization.
3.3 How much is the postage and handling or shipping fee?
We charge a fixed shipping fee of P95 anywhere in the Philippines.
3.4 My items haven’t arrived yet. What can I do?
If the product has not arrived after the time indicated in our delivery timetable, you can contact us via contact us page or thru our live chat for assistance.
You can also track the status of your order by using the tracking ID on the confirmation e-mail that was sent to you after a confirmed purchase.
3.5 Do you ship internationally?
Perfume Philippines ship within Philippine destination only.